Just when it felt like the whole “clean girl” look had been mapped out and boxed up, Hailey Bieber changed direction again. No slow transition, no warning. One minute it’s soft neutrals and neat hair, the next it’s something darker and more dramatic. It’s mid-February 2026, and people in fashion circles are still talking about this sharp turn in her red carpet style. The polished, minimal mood has taken a back seat. A darker, more romantic tone has stepped in.
This moment played out at the Sydney premiere of the new Wuthering Heights adaptation at the State Theatre on 12 February. The film’s leads, Margot Robbie and Jacob Elordi, were meant to be the centre of attention, and on paper, they were.
Still, when Hailey arrived, the reaction around the entrance was impossible to miss. Heads turned, conversations halted, and phones lifted even faster. It wasn’t a dress so much as the moody, windswept spirit of the Brontë moors she was incarnating, with a sharp modernist edge that felt more like an “East London club” than a “Victorian drawing room.”
The Architecture of the Look – Lace, Layers, and Risk
And what of the piece everyone can’t stop pointing at — Hailey Bieber’s Gothic Lace Dress. It was created for her by Anthony Vaccarello at Saint Laurent. The term “dress” feels inadequate to describe it, if that makes any sense.
The whole ethos behind it is transparency, and it doesn’t do anything to disguise that. It’s a full-length sheer black lace gown that’s made from Chantilly lace, and up close, it looks so delicate. Yes, it’s fragile but not flimsy. The cut lends it structure, so it never sways into vintage tablecloth territory.
Most of the online chatter was about what lay beneath the lace. She wore it with a sleekly angular triangular bralette and high-waisted briefs: no accident of design there. It’s essentially a high-fashion take on lace lingerie as outerwear. The sleeves fall long and open slightly at the end, and the hem fans out at the floor instead of coming to a neat stop. It does trail a bit when she walks, which creates drama without making it look like a costume.
We’ve been hearing about the “naked dress” trend for years at this point—and frankly, it can feel overdone. This one didn’t play out that way in person. The attraction was in the surface and the detail, not simply in the reveal. This particular lace pattern reacts particularly strongly under camera flash so that the floral shapes pop and recede depending on the angle. It even looks in photos like it’s raised, as if there’s more than one layer. A few stylists have begun referring to the mood as “Indie Sleaze meets High-Gothic Glamour.” It sounds dramatic, but it fits the vibe.
Why This Moment Matters for 2026 Fashion
Here’s what’s interesting. Fashion has been in a rut for the last few seasons when it comes to looking neat and controlled. Clean lines, pale colours, trimmed-back everything. Very “put together”. But as we venture deeper into 2026, there’s a palpable change in the mood. People appear to be ready for something with a little more bite.
This look is swimming against the whole “quiet luxury” thing we’ve been seeing all over. It skews darker, moodier, and a bit rough around the edges and doesn’t attempt to sand that down in any way.
There is also evidence in the numbers, not just the talk. New search pattern reports indicate that the terms “black lace maxi” and “vampy aesthetic” spiked overnight by 400% following the circulation of these photos. Those sorts of spikes don’t just happen. Some editors have already begun to refer to it as the “Hailey Effect” 2.0. The previous version used glow, gloss, and barely-there beauty details. This round feels different. Less shine, more intrigue.
The styling choices counted for a lot, too. Andrew Mukamal, who did Margot Robbie’s famous Barbie wardrobe and the more recent Wuthering Heights press looks, also worked here. By keeping the look pretty much accessory-free—with the exception of her massive diamond engagement ring, of course—he let the fabric do all the talking. No chunky necklaces, no blindingly ornate earrings. Just the sheer weight of that black lace.
The Beauty Shift: From Glazed to Vampy
You may want to take some notes if you’re going in for your next salon visit. The beauty look that Hailey styled with her Gothic Lace Dress is already this week’s most requested “vibe” in London/New York.
Gone is the “no-makeup” makeup. In its place?
- The “Maroon” Manicure: Her nail tech, Zola Ganzorigt, recently shared on Instagram a custom mix of OPI shades to come up with this dark, brownish-red colour that’s reminiscent of dried rose petals. It’s gone by the name “Cinnamon Roast” or “Black Cherry”, and it serves as the perfect partner to that gothic theme.
- Vampy Lips: Deep burgundy and merlot-stained lips are popping up once again. It’s a tincture of 90s nostalgia and refined, 1940s Hollywood silhouette.
- The Hair: It’s still ultrasmooth, but there’s a new “flicked out” energy to her bob here that feels a bit more lively and a little less severe than the ultraflat styles of 2025.
Recreating the Aesthetic (Without the Saint Laurent Price Tag)
The crazy bit is how swiftly this is percolating down to the high street. A red carpet look typically stays on the red carpet. But the “Dark Romanticism” thing is actually a wearable trend if you break it down. You don’t need to own a unique YSL bodysuit.
The key is in the contrast. But the trick is, if you are wearing a sheer black lace gown, balance it out with heavy leather boots or an oversized wool coat so that it contrasts and doesn’t feel too ‘boudoir.’” Who What Wear UK recently published a guide for how to replicate the look using clothing from Reformation and, yes, even Zara, honing in on high necklines and bell sleeves to capture that Victorian-goth vibe.
A Cultural Pivot or Just a Moment?
Is this just a bubble? I don’t think so. It’s no wonder Teen Vogue is declaring this the “Winter 2026 Vibe”. What we’re witnessing is a larger cultural shift toward “Dark Coquette”—a style that takes the ribbons and lace of the “coquette” trend but dunks them in ink. It’s a bit more mature, a bit more cynical, and frankly, a lot easier on the eyes.
You can see it walking through Soho lately. The kids are not wearing pastel pinks. They’re rocking sheer layers, silver crosses and thick black eyeliner. Hailey didn’t create the look, but by embracing it, she issued it a massive, high-gloss seal of approval.
FAQ: Everything You Need to Know About the Trend
What exactly is the “Gothic Lace” trend?
It’s a look that combines Victorian-ish fabrics (Chantilly lace, tulle) with progressive, edgy silhouettes. Think sheer fabrics, dark hues (mostly black and dark red) and “vampy” beauty picks.
Is Hailey Bieber’s dress a custom piece?
Yes, it’s a custom Saint Laurent by Anthony Vaccarello. It has a floral lace design with a floor-length skirt, along with embedded lace lingerie details.
How can I wear sheer lace without looking too “naked”?
The secret is in the underpinnings. High-waisted briefs and a shaped bralette keep things in check, without compromising the look. You can also layer a lace top under a structured blazer to give the trend an “everyday” spin.
What are “Maroon Nails”?
It’s Hailey’s latest viral manicure trend. The shade, a deep, rich brownish-red with hints of red, is mature, moody, and a refreshing departure from the neon bright reds or sheer nudes of previous seasons.
Who styled this look for the premiere?
Celebrity stylist Andrew Mukamal styled this look. He is the one making waves in the industry right now, and he’s even styled Margot Robbie as well.
After all, fashion is supposed to be a little bit of a conversation starter, isn’t it? Whether you’re a fan of the “naked dress” progression or you can’t wait for the world to throw some clothes back on, one thing’s clear: Hailey knows how to own a room. It’s broody, it’s dramatic, and it is exactly what mid-February needed.
So, are we all buying lace bodysuits now, or should I stick to my oversized hoodies and hope this passes by March?
Sources and References
- Marie Claire: Hailey Bieber’s Flippy Lob Is the Perfect Accessory to Her Naked Dress
- Red Carpet Fashion Awards: Hailey Bieber In Saint Laurent Lace For ‘Wuthering Heights’
- Hindustan Times: Hailey Bieber in see-through lacy gown at Wuthering Heights Sydney premiere
- The Zoe Report: Hailey Bieber Matched Her Nails To Her Lips At The 2026 Grammys
- Elle: Hailey Bieber Wears Sheer Black Lace Dress to ‘Wuthering Heights’ Sydney Premiere
- La Mode UK: Hailey Bieber Stuns in Sheer Saint Laurent Dress at Wuthering Heights Sydney Premiere
- Who What Wear: 30 Things I Think Hailey Bieber Would Buy From Zara This Month (The specific February 2026 guide for replicating her style using Zara and Reformation.)
